MWANDI, SESHEKE AND LIVINGSTONE

2013 is the 200^th Anniversary of the birth of David Livingstone and this event is being commemorated and celebrated in both Scotland and Zambia as well as elsewhere.

The community here, in Mwandi, are well aware of Livingstone, his travels and his local connection. He was a visitor to Mwandi, then called Sesheke, and the surrounding area, on several occasions. Mwandi was called Sesheke up until 1945 when the District’s administrative headquarters were moved 70km upstream to (New) Sesheke. Earlier this month it was officially announced that Mwandi would be one of the new Districts formed in Western Province. 

Livingstone’s association with the Mwandi area stretches back to 1851; 33 years before the arrival of the Paris Missionary Society Missionaries, sent by the Church of Lesotho to evangelise Barotseland. The Paris Mission were the founders of the present-day UCZ Mwandi Mission, the oldest Mission Station in the country. So, in Scottish terms Mwandi can be seen as a Zambian Iona or Whithorn.

In his book ‘Travels and Researches in South Africa’, Livingstone writes about Sesheke, meaning (Silver Sands)  in June 1851 when he and Mr Oswell proceed the 130 miles, after Sebitwane’s death, north east to Sesheke. Though we learn Sebitwane had earlier come down from Naliele, the capital, via Sesheke to Chobe to meet him. Sebitwane was the Sotho Chief who brought the Makalolo to the Zambezi during the Mfecane.

Livingstone and Oswell arrive in the dry season but they are impressed by the breadth and depth to the flow of the Zambezi, a magnificent portion of river, he calls it. It is at this time he decides to stop putting his family at risk from the dangers and from fever and to send them back to Europe.  On another occasion he mentions the corpse of a lion on the Zambezi near Sesheke that had been killed by a buffalo.

Livingstone’s diary of 20 September 1853 records him reaching Sesheke by canoe on his return from exploring the Northern Zambezi. This was another visit to the Mwandi area. He then left with Sekeletu, Sebitwane’s son, the new Makololo King for Linyanti, to discuss the possibility of an expedition to the Atlantic Coast at Luanda in Angola.

The diary entry for 19 November 1853 mentions his arrival back at Sesheke, the residence of Chief Moliantsane, brother-in-law to Sekeletu. Livingstone gives an interesting description of the town and some amusing anecdotes.

He tells of a Lozi being tied up as punishment for spearing a Makalolo’s ox. The accused’s mother arrived, armed with her hoe, and released her son, threatening to strike anyone who dared to interfere.

This entry also mentions that on the river bank under an acacia (camel-thorn) which gave shade to the Kuta (the local customary court), Livingstone gave his first public address in the presence of 500-600 souls. This, therefore, was the first recorded preaching of the Gospel on the North Bank of the Zambezi and at Mwandi no less!

He also mentions the difficulty he had with his voice in addressing such a large assembly of people. Again keeping the attention of the congregation is not always easy for a preacher. Moliantsane spotted some young fellows working with a skin instead of listening to the sermon, so he stood up and hurled his staff at them to bring back their wandering attention!

There is an old tree outside the present Church which is referred to as ‘Livingstone’s Tree’. It was in this area that he apparently camped. Livingstone gives the position of Sesheke as Latitude 17 degrees 31’ 38” South and Longitude 25 degrees 13’ East. I have checked this with a GPS and the Northing is spot-on but the Easting is a bit out. Older members of the congregation have pointed out the area where it is believed he preached.

The entry of 17^th December 1853 mentions the prodigious number of alligators(sic) found in the river at Sesheke and their savagery in carrying off so many children each year. This happens frequently he suggests because children are tempted to play at the river whilst down at the edge to draw water . It is a similar story with calves as the cattle swim across to and from the island pastures. Unfortunately even today crocodile attacks are an all too common occurrence at Mwandi.

Sesheke is not mentioned again until 22^nd August 1855 after Livingstone’s return from Angola. It is the end of winter and he describes the beauty of the scenery as the trees are beginning to bud and blossom. The atmosphere has a murky, smoky tinge from the burning grass. The group wait in Sesheke for the horses to arrive from Linyanti.

The final mention of Sesheke is on 3 November 1855 as Livingstone makes his final preparations for setting off for the Victoria Falls - also called Mosi oa Tunya and Shongwe in the entry - and his journey to the East. He is most grateful to Sekeletu for his parting gifts. Livingstone receives 12 oxen, hoes and beads to purchase a canoe and butter and honey. Livingstone appreciated this generosity as all the goods he had brought with him to barter with had gone and he was left with nothing.

It is interesting to note that at Independence most colonial names of towns and places were changed and replaced by indigenous names; but names associated with Livingstone were left largely untouched, such was the respect and affection he was held in. In a further confusing twist with the names of Livingstone and Mwandi - a new Western suburb in Livingstone has been named Mwandi. You can often see in the distance the zinc roofs shining in the sun as you come into town along the Nakatindi Road. Some German visitors who were planning to visit us asked for directions to Mwandi and spent the afternoon on a fruitless search for Mwandi Mission amongst the streets of the new suburb! Who knows but maybe in the New Mwandi District there may be a future suburb named Livingstone!